Kalinga is a province that I only heard of through Sibika and Kultura when I was still in elementary. It used to be called Kalinga Apayao. But Apayao has become a separate province in 1995.

I  vividly remember how my classmates fondly created their beads that adorned their necks.

Clad in tribal Kalinga costume, they danced to the tune of “Salidumay.” The youth in me was fascinated to the music: “Ang lahat ng bagay ay magkaugnay. Magkaugnay ang lahat ng bagay.” (Everything is connected. We are all connected.)

Fast forward to the grown-up me. I was seated on the bus with my blanket and pillow,ready for the 12-hour bus ride to the “land of the headhunters”—Kalinga.

History books tell us that Kalinga is the land of the warriors and headhunters. This notion made Kalinga a less traveled road in the Cordilleras. Unlike its neighbors, Bontoc, Sagada and Banaue, only few tourists flocked to Kalinga. This fueled my curiosity more on what this province has to offer.

At the bus bound for Tabuk, most of the passengers were locals. We were the only “outsiders”. Our guide, Francis Pain (whose number I got from fellow travelers) told us to alight in Bulanao but I didn’t know exactly where in Bulanao.

J, my travel buddy, asked one of the passengers seated in front of us. The woman who was in her 50s told us to alight at the “Kalabaw” (water buffalo). The water buffalo is a statue standing in front of St. William’s Cathedral.

Aside from telling us where to alight, she also asked another passenger to guide us towards the parking area where the jeepney to Tinglayan was.

We were strangers but we were treated us friends. From there, I felt welcomed in Kalinga.

It was around 7 am. We hadn’t had any breakfast yet. Good thing, there was a carinderia beside the parking of the jeepney.

We had two boiled saging na saba (boiled bananas) for Php 2.00 each and coffee. Total cost for breakfast: Php 20.00.

The driver then called us at around 7:30 am. The jeepney left Bulanao for Tinglayan. There were only five passengers: J and I, then a family with all their goods for sale.

According to my research, we would be riding for three hours before we reach our destination—Tinglayan.

The cold breeze and the scenic views of lush farmlands and terraces entertained me. Along the way, another passenger boarded the jeep.

I took out my camera and began clicking when I saw the terraces in Lubuagan. We later on learned that the passenger who boarded was named Charlie. He spoke to me in English and asked where we were headed. I replied, “In Tinglayan.” He said that Lubuagan is just an hour away from Tinglayan.

J and I spoke in Filipino. Then Charlie later on revealed that he thought, we were Koreans. hahaha. Maybe, that’s why the other passengers before him weren’t chatting with us.

Finally, the jeep stopped in front of Sleeping Beauty Inn, which was named after the mountain which they also called Sleeping Beauty because of its resemblance to a sleeping lady.

It was almost lunch time when we arrived in Tinglayan. Dressed in a floral shirt, Francis welcomed us and showed us a bleeding heart pigeon that his friend captured.He said that he’ll cook it for dinner later.

He suggested that we check in first and start walking around Tinglayan at 1:00pm.

Tinglayan is a small municipality tucked amid lush green mountains shaped by the winding Chico River.

Francis gave me a walking stick. It did help me walking along the narrow pathwalk in rice paddies. All eyes were on us as we entered the communities of Tunglay, Liglig, and Luplupa.

In these small villages, the native pigs and chickens were freely wandering around.

THE TOURIST HUNTER

The 48 year-old Francis, known as the tourist hunter, told his life story while we were walking around. He has been a tour guide since 1991.

I was surprised when he began disclosing his personal life and shared that he was single.

“It’s hard to find the right woman,” he said.

Then he continued by telling that he has a former flame with an Aussie. He tried applying for an Australian visa but he was denied. And so the flame didn’t develop into a fire.

He just remained in Kalinga. After all, it’s his home.

One amazing story that he shared was when he guided deaf and mute travelers. He said that they enjoyed roaming around even if they were communicating through pen and paper.

After awhile, Francis stopped walking and he told us that we’re about to meet the tattooed women of their town.

MEETING TATTOOED WOMEN

TURO of TUNGLAY
In Brgy. Tunglay, Francis introduced us to Turo. They spoke in their dialect while the topless woman in her twilight years sat in front of her door. Francis began interpreting for us.

Turo’s name means tree. Her age is unknown but her daughter Cornelia who approached us told that her mother is more than 80 years old.

Turo showed her arms covered with tattoos that made it look like her clothing. The design was a centipede.

When I asked why she chose to have a tattoo in her arms, Turo said that it was for beauty. The tattoo served as an adornment. The tattoo is believed to attract men.

On the other hand, her daughter Cornelia has no tattoo at all. She said that she didn’t want to get tattooed because it’s painful.

Before we left, we handed out the matches that Francis told us to bring. He said that it’s a token of gratitude.

From Tunglay, Francis led us to another village called Liglig.

CHUMMANGYAG OF LIGLIG

Wearing a traditional aain (tribal cloth wrapped around the waist), Chummangyag greeted us with a smile.

She has nine children but only four survived. She was only 16 when she got her arms tattooed from the mambabatok (traditional tattoo artist) Kanisi, who then lived in Ambato.

She chose a rattan design for her arms.

Though the Kalinga people love to adorn their necks with beads, Chummangyag said that it was still better to get tattooed on the arms.

“When we die, we can’t bring the beads but our tattoo will be with us,” said Chummangyag as translated by Francis.

The clouds were turning gray. It was time for us to bade them farewell. And so off we return to Sleeping Beauty Inn.

On our way back, I saw school kids who smiled and waved at us and gamely posed for a photograph.

The Kalinga that I saw and experienced was not the Kalinga that I used to read from History books. Though they are “territorial by nature” (as what a local told us), they have a ready smile to give to strangers like us.

The period of headhunting in Kalinga has ended. Francis told us that most of the headhunters were dead and only few who are very old remained alive.

And up to this moment, I still have my head attached to my neck. hehehe.

Yes, it took us 12 hours to get to Tabuk and another 3 hours to get to Tinglayan. It may be tiring but the road less traveled to Kalinga was worth going into. It was a surprising trip indeed.