Tag Archives: culture

Lake Sebu: Home of the peace-loving T’bolis

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The cool breeze of the night tickled me to sleep like a baby making me feel at home at the tribal house of the T’bolis of Lake Sebu, South Cotabato. The moon then bade farewell. The sun’s rays woke me up hugging me with its warmth. I peeked through the window and I saw serenity.

Lake Sebu South Cotabato

The Cultureight adventurers got up and fixed the pillows and blankets that were lent to us during the night.

The Teacher

Oyog “Maria” Todi, our host, greeted us with a warm smile. Maria is a mom, a teacher, and a leader in her community. She passes the traditions that she inherited from their ancestors through the School of Living Traditions.

The teacherI was overjoyed when the kids performed their unique dances to the beat of the t’nonggong and the rhythm of the hegelung. Thank God that their rich culture is still alive even in this age of digitization. Here’s a video which I took and reported as a feature on Inquirer.net back in 2009:

The Living Treasure

Aside from Maria, we met another T’boli whose life was dedicated in weaving dreams resulting to exotic designs of the T’nalak (T’boli cloth). Lang Dulay earned the National Commission for Culture and the Arts’ Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan (National Living Treasure Award) in 1998 due to her unwavering service to her community.

We felt privileged to meet her in her hut where her students were weaving. Biologically, she’s old but her dedication makes her young. I asked her a few questions which her grandson translated. She spoke firmly and clearly in her native tongue. It may be foreign to me but I saw her sincerity. Here’s a transcript of my chat with her:

Trip@dora: Gaano kahalaga ang T’nalak sa buhay po ninyo? (How significant is T’nalak weaving in your life?)

Lang Dulay (as translated by her grandson): Walang saysay ang buhay ng isang babaeng T’boli kung hindi sila gumawa ng T’nalak mula noon hanggang ngayon. (Life has no meaning for a T’boli woman if she’s not weaving T’nalak. T’nalak weaving gives meaning to her life since then until now).

Her answer was short yet powerful. Indeed, their lives were weaved in preserving their culture and arts.

The Last Princess

What goes around, comes around. The good you do comes back to you. And this was what happened to Boi (Princess) Diwa Ofong, the T’boli princess who lives in Brgy. Lamdalag, Lake Sebu.

Despite being bedridden, the princess was still in her regal form adorned with gold trinkets. Her bed with canopy showed her royalty. She’s under the care of the 67 year-old Dway Lumen.

“She and the other people around me take care of me because of what I’ve done when I was still strong,” said the 76 year-old Boi Diwa as translated by Myrna Pula, the T’boli cluster head of the NCCA who assisted us.

We were surprised when Pula disclosed that Dway Lumen was the second wife of the Datu. It’s not telenovela but real life: The second wife takes care of the first wife. Wow! How selfless. Boundaries were broken. Boi Diwa didn’t say, “Ako legal wife!”

Pula related to us that Boi Diwa is a heroine of women and a champion of peace.

“She used to be a peacemaker and a community advisor when she was still strong. She settled disputes in the community,” shared Pula.

Lake Sebu was so rich not only with its natural resources but also with its culture. The stories of these women were inspiring. My immersion with the T’bolis totally changed my perspective about Mindanao as a war-torn area as mistakenly mentioned by some journalists in the media. Generalizing the whole island was so wrong.

Serenity lives in Lake Sebu, South Cotabato, the home of the peace-loving T’bolis.

***

This is my entry to the 13th Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival this November, entitled, “Mindanao Bliss” and hosted by Olan Emboscado of TheTravelTeller.

Special thanks to Ms. Charisse Aquino Tugade of Cultureight.com for inviting us to experience a different side of Mindanao. 

The accidental solo traveler in Bacolod

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We started planning as four and I ended up alone in the airport in October 2010.


The sun was still asleep when I arrived at the Silay City Airport. Though I armed myself with research on my destinations (Bacolod and Silay), I was a bit anxious. Talk about first time jitters. But good thing, I approached the staff at the airport to ask where the vans going to Bacolod City were. (My post on How to go to Bacolod City)

The anxiety turned into excitement when the van left the airport. Most of the passengers came home just in time for the MassKara Festival. It would be my first time as well to witness and document the colorful festival in the City of Smiles. I’ve been wanting to visit this for the longest time. Thankfully, I bought my airfare six months before the festival.

It was just 6 o’clock in the morning when I arrived at Check Inn Pension. I was so early and rooms weren’t available yet. So, the staff advised me to just leave my luggage in their safekeeping. I was hesitant at first, but I can’t bring my heavy backpack around. So, I agreed and gave my trust.

I went out to find something to eat. Only Jollibee was open during that time. (haha. fastfood. I was craving for La Paz Batchoy, which I ate on my second breakfast the following day.)

I returned to Check Inn and got my room earlier than the 2pm check-in time. After resting for an hour, I got up and walked to the Tourism Office of Bacolod City. I got my Photographer’s pass and asked them about directions going to Silay for my next itinerary. They were all surprised and worried when they learned that I was traveling solo. “If you need help, just contact us,” said Sharleen, one of the Tourism officers who gave her number.

From the Tourism Office, I headed to Manokan Country for lunch. Finally, authentic inasal…here I come! Eating alone was not a problem for me.

Next stop was the Negros Museum. Thanks to my very helpful GPS. I found out that it was a bit far. So I rode a multicab and paid 7 pesos.  For 50 pesos, I got a glimpse of Negros Occidental’s history. Too bad, picture taking was not allowed in the second floor where they kept most of the interesting antique pieces. I only got a picture of the art installation in the ground floor.

Next on the itinerary was the provincial capitol, which was a few steps away.  As I was walking, I noticed that they have an eco-park across the capitol. There’s an aviary inside but nothing much to see. So I proceeded and saw the American-inspired architecture of the capitol overlooking the lagoon park. Families flock the area even in the afternoon, where they spend time resting and bonding with their kids.

The first day ended early as rain fell. I would have went out during the night but the ‘dark’ environment in downtown Bacolod (Quiapo-like environment) prevented me to do so. Yes,  I was afraid.

But the following day, fear turned into courage.  It felt liberating to commute alone going to Silay City. The locals were very friendly and assisted me enough for me to get to my destination: Balay Negrense. I didn’t expect that my solo travel would led me to meet new friends. I was not alone after all. (This needs a separate post. Long story.)

Third day in Bacolod City was the MassKara Festival itself. I learned that Karlo and Estan were there as well. I happily captured the smiles of the MassKara dancers along with Karlo and his other photographer friends. It was a tiring yet fulfilling day.

On my last day, I went to buy pasalubongs (e.g. Napoleones and souvenir shirts). I hailed a multicab and told the driver to drop me off at this certain street. I was the only passenger left when the driver realized that we’ve missed the street. Nonetheless, he still returned to the street and I alighted. I was very grateful. If it happened in Manila, the driver would probably tell me to just take another ride. There are still few good people in this world. :)

Napoleones

I didn’t regret taking the chance to pursue my trip even if I was alone.

LESSONS LEARNED:

1. Don’t be afraid. Go out of your comfort zones.

2. Don’t hesitate to ask. The locals will be willing to help you. (In this case, the Negrenses did.)

3. Traveling solo is liberating and teaches independence.

4. Traveling solo allows you to reflect and enjoy your “me-time”.

5. It is you who control your own time. You travel at your own pace.


This is Tripadora’s entry to Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival themed Traveling Solo.

Nina Fuentes of justwandering.org hosts April’s Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival

The Japanese Tunnel: Unearthed

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Tunnels always appear to be mysterious with the way they are associated with history. Hence, the Japanese Tunnel made it to my list of places to see in Davao City.

Located at Ma-a Diversion Road, the 250-kilometer long Japanese Tunnel can be a stop-over before going to the famous Philippine Eagle Center in Calinan. That’s what we did.


I was surprised to see a restaurant and a pool beside the tunnel. My previous researches online didn’t mention that the tunnel is now within a resort.

We ate our lunch at the restaurant, which  didn’t offer Japanese food. lol. I was really expecting that they will offer Japanese food since they are promoting the Japanese Tunnel. They serve Filipino cuisine at affordable prices. A group meal of five viands (good for 6 pax) costs us Php 950 or Php 158.50 each. For internet addicts, you will love the resto for their free wifi.

After feeding our appetite, we paid an entrance fee of 50 pesos each (adults). The entrance fee for kids costs Php 20. (Previous researches noted that the fee for the tunnel was Php 10.)

At the entrance, I saw a tarpaulin with a short history of the place. It says that the Japanese Tunnel was excavated by Filipino war prisoners under the Japanese Imperial Army in 1942. The tunnel was a hiding place of the Japanese during World War II.

But it was only in 1960 when the tunnel was discovered. The development of the Ma-a Diversion Road led to its discovery. Ammunitions, bayonets, and paper bills were among those unearthed. The paper bills were displayed at the entrance. Imagine– a five-peso bill during the Japanese period resembled a dollar.

Unlike other tunnels, this one was somehow well-lit. But seeing statues inside the tunnel saddened me. The essence of history was somehow lost by placing replicas. It should have been preserved rather than renovated. For photography purposes, it adds color but it degrades the value of history.

Admittedly, it’s good for photo-ops. But I do hope that the management will improve their services by giving more importance on the place’s history.

Exploring the Ancient South

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Mindanao, the second largest island in the Philippines, has been labelled as a war-torn area creating fear among tourists. But serenity was what I saw when I visited the region.

The lush greens of agricultural lands and rainforests in SOCSARGEN region (South Cotabato, Sarangani, General Santos) welcomed us as the plane descended to General Santos International Airport.

It has been six days of fun and adventure with Cultureight Travel team as the rich culture of Mindanao and its high potential for tourism were uncovered right before my eyes.

Tuna Capital

From the airport in Brgy. Tambler, we roamed around the 11-hectare General Santos Fish Port Complex situated along the shores of Sarangani Bay. Proper attire of clothes with sleeves, pants and rubber shoes were required for sanitation purposes. White boots were also provided to avoid slipping on the wet markets.

We were welcomed by fresh tuna being weighed and tagged for the domestic market.

Paris Ayon, port manager for Food Safety of the Philippine Fisheries Development Authority, told us that around 10,000 fishermen supply 250 metric tons of tuna in a day for consumption of the 90 percent export market and 10 percent domestic market.

Thus, General Santos City earned the title as the Tuna Capital of the Philippines. General Santos City relies heavily on the exportation of tuna, making up 60 percent of its economy.

After wandering along the busy port, we filled our stomachs with a sumptuous meal while being entertained by the sound of kulintang and the gongs at the Sarangani Highlands, which is overlooking the serene Sarangani Bay.

Adrenaline Rush

In the afternoon, courage was tested as we brave the big splash of the rapids of Pangi River at Brgy. New La Union in Maitum, Sarangani. White water tubing really raises one’s adrenaline levels. This outdoor sport is for the adventurous soul and not for the faint-hearted. Tubing involves the use of a donut-like rubber tire. The Municipality of Maitum used two recycled rubber tires of a truck, which serve as chairs for the guest and the local guide.

The community calls the barangay as New La Union because most of the residents are Ilocanos from La Union in Pangasinan.

During the evening, Nanay Perla, a local of Maitum, opened her house for guests like us. The homey atmosphere would not make you feel that you are away from home. Staying in a homestead which costs around Php 750 with breakfast is an alternative to the usual inns.

Stretching muscles

Our second day in Sarangani stretched our muscles as we trekked the Zion Mountain which is home to the Zion Cave. Wearing strapped outdoor sandals is advisable. Thong slippers would not help you hike and cross the rivers.

In my case, my rubber slipper on my left foot gave up due to the strong river current making me walk barefoot. But walking on the rocky road to the Zion cave felt good just like getting a foot massage.

Nonetheless, a local official of the barangay named Arlene helped me by tying my slipper with a long dried coconut leaf. The whole barangay welcomed us with barbecued fish and native chicken as we arrived at the foot of the cave.  It was so overwhelming.

Arlene told me that kaingin is still practiced in their barangay as it is their only way to plant crops in the mountain. I felt bad. They really need to be educated that kaingin is destroying Mother Earth.

From the mountain to the seas, we visited the Pawikan Nesting Sanctuary at Brgy. Old Poblacion. The Municipality of Maitum is trying to conserve rainturtles, hawksbill, and olive Reedley from its threatened state.

Life seems so peaceful in this part of Mindanao as kids play with their crab pet while mothers weave nets as they await their husbands’ arrival with a fish catch for their daily sustenance.

Swimming with the school of fish

Snorkeling was also one of the highlights of the trip as we swam with schools of fish in the Tuka Marine Park in Kiamba, Sarangani.

In 2005, the Municipality of Kiamba declared core zone 2 in Tuka Marine Park as a protected area based on RA 8550 or the Philippine Fisheries code of 1998.

The Tuka Marine Park is a haven of colorful hard and soft corals where clown fish, napoleon wrasse, barracudas and other marine species lived.

Immersing with the community

The Ancient South Crash tour of Cultureight was not just sightseeing but it let us experience the way of life of the T’bolis in Lake Sebu, South Cotabato.

Maria, whose T’boli name is Oyog Todi, greeted us on a rainy afternoon as she accepted us in the tribal guest house. The T’boli children smiled as we entered the tribal house made of bamboo (kawayan) and nipa (sawali). It was not the ordinary bahay-kubo with its large area. Surprisingly, the bamboos used as foundations were not nailed together.

The T’bolis still kept their rich culture alive as Maria and the T’boli children performed their ethnic dances such as the Madal Tahu, Madal Soyow (Warrior dance), and Madal Iwas (Monkey dance).

After they danced, they taught us the movements of the dances to the beat of the t’nonggong (drum) and the harmonious string sound of the hegelung (guitar).

The children also showed how skillful they were in making accessories through beadworks. Even a three-year old girl named Yenyen can put beads in strands of threads. Artistry blends in the culture of the T’bolis as they passed it from one generation to the other.

They may not be rich financially but the living culture of the T’boli sets them apart from the rest.  It makes me proud to be a Filipino.